Beyond unisex: The new face of beauty is non-binary

Something seismic is happening in the world of beauty marketing. Post-pandemic, Gen Z is coming of age, and with it comes a rejection of beauty stereotypes and the brands that perpetuate them.

From K-pop stars wearing cosmetics, to Harry Styles in a Gucci dress, to non-binary models on catwalks, style influencers are breaking the 20th century “rules” of gendered beauty and fashion. The beauty community is becoming more inclusive than ever before, with more than two thirds of Gen Zs welcoming content from beauty influencers from a different gender of their own, according to a Kyra Media study.

But, dig a bit deeper and something even more revolutionary is happening. More than half of Gen Zs believe that gender is non-binary and encompasses a spectrum (can we confirm source for this?)., while a third of Gen Zs say they personally know someone who identifies with gender neutral pronouns, according to a Pew Research study.

This presents a huge opportunity for beauty brands. Engagements with content that mentions transgender, non-binary and gender fluid beauty terms have increased by over 50%, according to Traackr data. There has been a 393% increase in search for men’s makeup on global beauty platform “Love the Sales.”

It’s important to remember that this is not just a “moment.” The non-cisgender experience of beauty has existed since the beginning of humanity, and our early 21st century perceptions about male and female beauty have stemmed from a relatively recent tradition.

In Ancient Egypt, men used black eye pigment to create elaborate cat eye designs, while in Ancient Rome they were known to powder their faces, paint their nails and apply red eye pigment to their cheeks. In the courts of Elizabeth I and in Regency England, men wore face powder and applied beauty spot marks to enhance their appearances. Even in the 20th Century, Hollywood matinee idols like Clark Gable wore eyeliner in the 30s, the likes of David Bowie played with androgyny in the 70s and more recently, the likes of Calvin Klein and Benetton pushed unisex style in the 90s.

But what makes today’s non-binary beauty marketing different from the unisex beauty drops of the recent past is that it forces the brand and consumer to look beyond the “rules” of gender.

For example: a unisex beauty ad can take the form of a heteronormative duo sharing the same perfume whilst uttering the lines, “For him, for her, for us.” But this type of marketing only takes a tiny step in the direction of what non-binary beauty means today. And it often falls flat for non-binary people, who perceive that the brand is still playing up to gender stereotypes and only represents the singular categories of “man” and “woman”.

For a brand to truly acknowledge the non-binary experience, it must represent the varying ways non-binary people choose to not conform to the expectations of gender, from identity to expression. This means representing the dualities of masculinity and femininity that can exist in an individual without trying to define or control it.

Non-binary marketing is not the evolution of unisex marketing; both can continue to exist in the beauty landscape. However, to successfully launch a non-binary beauty campaign, brands need to be willing to break their own format of how they approach gender and beauty. They must take gender out of the equation completely and focus more on how their product makes their target consumer feel.

For brands, it is time to evolve. But as Gen Zs enter the workplace and increase their spending power, there is a relatively small window for brands to enter the gender inclusive beauty space and be recognized for valuing this community.

So what do brands need to know about the non-binary revolution in beauty?

· First, brands need to be inclusive by giving space to those who were rejected in the past. But they should tread carefully to avoid inauthenticity; Gen Z are quick to accuse brands of rainbow washing or just leaping on a trend.
· Instead, engage with communities that are gender inclusive. As well as marketing or branding campaigns, experiences are key. Brands looking to make an impression amongst Gen Zs need to be creating IRL events that are more inclusive and target different groups.
· For cosmetics brands, recognize that makeup is now genderless with this generation. Brands like We Are Fluide have embraced this, offering products from a space that is welcoming to all. Through its platform, We Are Fluide amplifies the voices of gender inclusive identities and inspires its consumers to showcase beauty on its own terms.
· Brands need to go beyond the traditional rules of beauty. For example, Gen Z consumers question the long-held industry belief in products addressing gender-specific skin care concerns. Brands like Fenty Skin are creating a new culture of skincare in which gender is not at the forefront of its marketing, and ads show men, women and non-binary people equally.
· When it comes to fragrance, there are no gender rules. While brands like Calvin Klein’s CK One pioneered “unisex” fragrance, fragrance brands now have an opportunity to play with scents associated with different genders in the past.
· Brands playing catchup should also look to the Asian market to understand how to market to this new generation. Post-pandemic, there was a 40% increased interest in skincare amongst Japanese men and a 20% increase in makeup. Brands like Shiseido have seen double digit growth, and while some of this is down to the K-pop influencer trend, even Japanese businessmen in their 40s have also increased their use of skin care.
· Another trend to look out for is “anti-perfection”; the idea that beauty is more about how you feel than how you look. According to a 2022 beauty report from Klarna, 71% of beauty consumers said they preferred to always feel good, rather than always look good. And according to a Dazed Studio report, 80% of Gen Zs and Millennials said beauty was more about confidence than appearance. Anti-perfection aesthetics focus on self-expression, self-experimentation and joy rather than the relentless pursuit of perfection. In other words, beauty is defined by how you feel and the standards you define for yourself, rather than the ones society puts upon you.

Finally, remember that consumers who purchase gender inclusive beauty cannot be defined by a demographic – whether they are a cisgender man or non-binary, for brands the importance is recognizing that consumers should not be restricted in expressing their physical beauty by their gender. Beauty products can express their identity, their creativity or their authenticity; what the brand says about them as a person is the key.

To read the full article, visit Cosmetics Business.